Wednesday, October 29, 2008
Sexing Livebearers
How do you tell if your livebearers are male or female? It's quite easy, once you know how.
Mollies, guppies, platys, swordtails, four-eyed-fish and endlers are all livebearers.
Guppies are usually fairly easy to sex if they are mature. The
males (left) have large, beautiful tails, while the females (right) are much plainer.Swordtails are usually the easiest, the males (below) having the "sword" tail and the females resembling an elongated platy. But wait: female swordtails can turn into males!
There is really one 'foolproof' way to check ALL livebearers.
The gonopodium. This is a modified, tube-like anal fin that only the males have. It is used in mating to impregnate the female fish. Let me show you an illustration, using the sillhouette of a platy.
The male (pictured left) with the gonopodium. Note that the female (right) has normal anal fin.
Tuesday, October 28, 2008
Information on Planted Tanks
I'm not an expert on planted tanks, but I have had good success with my tank as you will see from the photo. Here are some things that I hope will help some planted tank beginners/owners.
------------------------------
Below is a photo of my 33 gal and here's what's on it. 80watts of lighting (Aqua-Glo and Power-Glo) One Hagen Co2 Machine (I make my own activator/stabilizers) One Aquaclear 500 filter, one Under-Gravel Filter. Ferts: Plant-Gro Iron Enriched, Plant-Gro NPK Professional (careful with this one), and Jobe's Stakes Palm and Fern.
Plants I am currently growing under these conditions are as follows: Rotala rotundfolia, Vallisneria gigantea, Echinodorus amazonicus, Cryptocoryne wendtii (brown), Cryptocoryne willisii, Cryptocoryne parva, Nymphaea lotus, Microsorium pteropus, Anubias barteri, Anubias barteri (nana), Hygrophila polysperma.
1. Pruning: It is a very good idea to prune your plants often, once a week to once every two weeks depending on plant growth. It is especially important to remove the unsightly dead and dying leaves as they will lay on the bottom of your tank and rot, or worse, get stuck in your filter intake. Some people place a sponge over the end of the intake to prevent this from happening. Also, plants such as Giant Vallisneria grow very fast, covering the top of the tank. You will need to cut back such plants to prevent this from happening. Be sure you prune larger plants if they are shadowing smaller plants too much, as the smaller plants can die if they don't receive enough light.
2. Replanting Cuttings: When pruning stem plants (such as rotala, hygros, hornwort, etc.), you don't have to throw out the handfull of cuttings. Pick the nicest looking cuttings and plant them in the substrate. If the plant won't stay you may need to place a larger pebble over the base of it to keep it down. They will soon take root and you can remove the pebble weights. This is great because you are pruning your plants and making them thicker/bushier than before. Some plants, like vallisneria and swords, send off shoots with 'baby' plants on long, horizontal stems. Wait until these 'baby' plants get substantial roots and leaves, the clip the sideshoot and plant the new plant.
3. Under-Gravel Filters: People may tell you that if you have and Under Gravel Filter, you cannot grow aquarium plants. I personally really like to use them. I have a UGF with one powerhead and my plants grow extremely well. You be the judge.
4. Herbivorous Fish: Some fish will eat and nip at your plants. Study the fish before you buy it if you have live plants:
Angels seem to enjoy eating Vallisneria and Hygrophilla, while Clown Loaches will sometimes enjoy a munch on Swords. Rainbowfish enjoy soft-leafed plants. I've heard Congo Tetras like to eat Anubias and certain red plants, Ancistrus species and Kribensis also eat Anubias. Although I've never had a problem with Siamese Algae Eaters, there are some reports of them eating Anubias and Rotala. Red-Eyed Tetras will eat many aquarium plants. Elephant nose will make holes in plant leaves. Emperor Tetras eat duckweed (YAY) I don't recommend Common Plecos or any large pleco species in a planted tank - especially with Amazon Swords. Also: Many cichlid species will eat plants, therefore I recommend Java Fern for cichlid tanks.
5. Co2: I highly recommend buying a Co2 machine (or making one yourself - the DIY section is here) if you want to grow anything other than vallisneria, hornwort and hygros. Co2 is what plants breathe, and your fish won't be able to provide enough Co2 alone for your plants. Careful that you follow the directions for how much Co2 you should have in your tank. Larger size tanks need more Co2. I have one Hagen machine on my 33 gallon and it does wonderfully. If you are using the Hagen Co2 machine, you don't have to buy the Activator/Stabilizer packets. Here are the directions to making your own (money saver!): Follow these directions exact, as too much Co2 can kill fish!!!! Sugar goes in first. Fill to the first line inside the cannister. Water's next, fill to the second line. Now you need 1/4 tsp of yeast (NOT instant yeast!) and 1 tsp of Baking soda. That's it, there's your Activators and Stabilizers!
6. Watering your Plants: Just kidding
!
7. Fertilizers: Ok, back to being serious. Fertilizers are very important. Some plants (such as hygros and vals) don't need much fertilizing, but others (such as lotus, cabomba, crypts, swords...) need more than just fish waste for food. There are many fertilizers out there. Flourish, Azoo, Plant-Gro, etc. Plant-Gro Iron Enriched works great for me, (always get Iron Enriched ferts if you have any red or brown plants) while regular Plant-Gro doesn't seem to work at all. I used to use Azoo Iron Enriched, it was quite good also. It's up to you which ferts you decide to use, as everyone has different ideas about fertilizer. I just ask that you follow the measurement instructions carefully as over-fertilizing is not good either. Now, alot of liquid ferts have only micronutrients in them. You need both micro and macronutrients for some plants. A good macro-nutrient fertilizer is Jobe's Stakes Palm and Fern. Be sure you get the Palm and Fern. For Crypts and swords, and other high fert-needing plants, break the stakes in thirds and push them down into the gravel - don't put them too close to the roots because these potent fertilizers can burn the roots. I put them about 1.5 to 2 inches away from the roots. Redo this about every 3 months, and careful not to suck the stakes up in the gravel vacuum during w/c's.
8. Algae: I am not an expert on algae, as I have never really had a problem with it. You can find some very helpful info in this post on FishForums.com about algae.
Amano Shrimp, sometimes known as just "Algae Eating Shrimp" are great for cleaning algae off plants. I was absolutely amazed when I got them how they clean out even the little crevices and cracks in driftwood. They are great for eating algae off of plant leaves and will not harm your plants.
Another good algae shrimp is Cherry Shrimp if you prefer something more showy.
9. Benefits: Aquarium plants will beautify your tank much more than any artificial plants and decorations ever could. Plus, they create a natural habitat for your fish much like in the wild. Algae levels will decrease, since plants and algae both fight for the same nutrients. Your fish will breathe healthy as plants convert Co2 to oxygen. Plants also clean the water, and water changes don't have to be done as often in a well established planted tank (but DON'T use this as an excuse to skip w/c's - although a well established planted tank can usually go a week longer than non-planted between w/c's, don't attempt this at first.)
10. Plant List: I found this list on the internet. It is quite helpful for proper lighting needs of individual plants.
PS: Java Ferns prefer to grow on driftwood than in the gravel! Just tie it on with some fishing line and it will eventually send roots onto the wood.
Scientific Name | Common Name | Light Requirement | Difficulty
Aponogeton crispus - Crinkled or Ruffled Aponogeton 3.0 wpg Easy/Medium
Aponogeton ulvaceus - Compact Aponogeton 2.0 - 3.0 wpg Medium/Challenging
Aponogeton undulatus 2.0 - 3.0 wpg Easy/Moderate
Cryptocoryne beckettii - Beckett's Cryptocoryne 2.0 - 3.0 wpg Easy/Medium
Cryptocoryne walkeri var. lutea 1.0+ wpg Easy
Cryptocoryne parva - Tiny Cryptocoryne 4.0 wpg Challenging
Cryptocoryne undulata - Undulate Cryptocoryne 3.0+ wpg Medium/Challenging
Cryptocoryne wendtii - Crypt Wendtii 2.0 - 3.0 wpg Easy/Medium
Cryptocoryne willisii 3.0 wpg Easy/Medium
Hydrocotyle sibthorpioides 3.0+ wpg Easy/Medium
Hygrophila corymbosa - Giant Hygrophila 2.0 - 3.0 wpg Easy
Hygrophila difformis - Water Wysteria 3.0+ wpg Medium
Hygrophila polysperma - Dwarf Hygrophila 3.0 wpg Easy
Limnophila aquatica - Giant Ambulia 3.0+ wpg Medium/Challenging
Limnophila sessiliflora - Dwarf Ambulia 3.0+ wpg Easy
Microsorium pteropus - Java Fern 1.0+ wpg Easy
Nymphaea lotus - Tiger Lotus 3.0 wpg Medium/Challenging
Nymphaea stellata - Red and Blue Water Lily 3.0+ wpg Medium
Rotala indica 3.0 wpg Medium
Rotala macrandra - Giant Red Rotala 3.0+ wpg Challenging/Difficult
Rotala rotundifolia - Dwarf rotala 3.0 wpg Medium
Salvinia natans - Salvinia 3.0 wpg Medium
Vallisneria tortifolia - Twisted Vallisneria/Dwarf Vallisneria 3.0 wpg Easy
Vesicularia dubyana - Java Moss 1.0+ wpg Easy
------------------------------
Below is a photo of my 33 gal and here's what's on it. 80watts of lighting (Aqua-Glo and Power-Glo) One Hagen Co2 Machine (I make my own activator/stabilizers) One Aquaclear 500 filter, one Under-Gravel Filter. Ferts: Plant-Gro Iron Enriched, Plant-Gro NPK Professional (careful with this one), and Jobe's Stakes Palm and Fern.
Plants I am currently growing under these conditions are as follows: Rotala rotundfolia, Vallisneria gigantea, Echinodorus amazonicus, Cryptocoryne wendtii (brown), Cryptocoryne willisii, Cryptocoryne parva, Nymphaea lotus, Microsorium pteropus, Anubias barteri, Anubias barteri (nana), Hygrophila polysperma.
1. Pruning: It is a very good idea to prune your plants often, once a week to once every two weeks depending on plant growth. It is especially important to remove the unsightly dead and dying leaves as they will lay on the bottom of your tank and rot, or worse, get stuck in your filter intake. Some people place a sponge over the end of the intake to prevent this from happening. Also, plants such as Giant Vallisneria grow very fast, covering the top of the tank. You will need to cut back such plants to prevent this from happening. Be sure you prune larger plants if they are shadowing smaller plants too much, as the smaller plants can die if they don't receive enough light.
2. Replanting Cuttings: When pruning stem plants (such as rotala, hygros, hornwort, etc.), you don't have to throw out the handfull of cuttings. Pick the nicest looking cuttings and plant them in the substrate. If the plant won't stay you may need to place a larger pebble over the base of it to keep it down. They will soon take root and you can remove the pebble weights. This is great because you are pruning your plants and making them thicker/bushier than before. Some plants, like vallisneria and swords, send off shoots with 'baby' plants on long, horizontal stems. Wait until these 'baby' plants get substantial roots and leaves, the clip the sideshoot and plant the new plant.
3. Under-Gravel Filters: People may tell you that if you have and Under Gravel Filter, you cannot grow aquarium plants. I personally really like to use them. I have a UGF with one powerhead and my plants grow extremely well. You be the judge.
4. Herbivorous Fish: Some fish will eat and nip at your plants. Study the fish before you buy it if you have live plants:
Angels seem to enjoy eating Vallisneria and Hygrophilla, while Clown Loaches will sometimes enjoy a munch on Swords. Rainbowfish enjoy soft-leafed plants. I've heard Congo Tetras like to eat Anubias and certain red plants, Ancistrus species and Kribensis also eat Anubias. Although I've never had a problem with Siamese Algae Eaters, there are some reports of them eating Anubias and Rotala. Red-Eyed Tetras will eat many aquarium plants. Elephant nose will make holes in plant leaves. Emperor Tetras eat duckweed (YAY) I don't recommend Common Plecos or any large pleco species in a planted tank - especially with Amazon Swords. Also: Many cichlid species will eat plants, therefore I recommend Java Fern for cichlid tanks.
5. Co2: I highly recommend buying a Co2 machine (or making one yourself - the DIY section is here) if you want to grow anything other than vallisneria, hornwort and hygros. Co2 is what plants breathe, and your fish won't be able to provide enough Co2 alone for your plants. Careful that you follow the directions for how much Co2 you should have in your tank. Larger size tanks need more Co2. I have one Hagen machine on my 33 gallon and it does wonderfully. If you are using the Hagen Co2 machine, you don't have to buy the Activator/Stabilizer packets. Here are the directions to making your own (money saver!): Follow these directions exact, as too much Co2 can kill fish!!!! Sugar goes in first. Fill to the first line inside the cannister. Water's next, fill to the second line. Now you need 1/4 tsp of yeast (NOT instant yeast!) and 1 tsp of Baking soda. That's it, there's your Activators and Stabilizers!
6. Watering your Plants: Just kidding
!7. Fertilizers: Ok, back to being serious. Fertilizers are very important. Some plants (such as hygros and vals) don't need much fertilizing, but others (such as lotus, cabomba, crypts, swords...) need more than just fish waste for food. There are many fertilizers out there. Flourish, Azoo, Plant-Gro, etc. Plant-Gro Iron Enriched works great for me, (always get Iron Enriched ferts if you have any red or brown plants) while regular Plant-Gro doesn't seem to work at all. I used to use Azoo Iron Enriched, it was quite good also. It's up to you which ferts you decide to use, as everyone has different ideas about fertilizer. I just ask that you follow the measurement instructions carefully as over-fertilizing is not good either. Now, alot of liquid ferts have only micronutrients in them. You need both micro and macronutrients for some plants. A good macro-nutrient fertilizer is Jobe's Stakes Palm and Fern. Be sure you get the Palm and Fern. For Crypts and swords, and other high fert-needing plants, break the stakes in thirds and push them down into the gravel - don't put them too close to the roots because these potent fertilizers can burn the roots. I put them about 1.5 to 2 inches away from the roots. Redo this about every 3 months, and careful not to suck the stakes up in the gravel vacuum during w/c's.
8. Algae: I am not an expert on algae, as I have never really had a problem with it. You can find some very helpful info in this post on FishForums.com about algae.
Amano Shrimp, sometimes known as just "Algae Eating Shrimp" are great for cleaning algae off plants. I was absolutely amazed when I got them how they clean out even the little crevices and cracks in driftwood. They are great for eating algae off of plant leaves and will not harm your plants.
Another good algae shrimp is Cherry Shrimp if you prefer something more showy.
9. Benefits: Aquarium plants will beautify your tank much more than any artificial plants and decorations ever could. Plus, they create a natural habitat for your fish much like in the wild. Algae levels will decrease, since plants and algae both fight for the same nutrients. Your fish will breathe healthy as plants convert Co2 to oxygen. Plants also clean the water, and water changes don't have to be done as often in a well established planted tank (but DON'T use this as an excuse to skip w/c's - although a well established planted tank can usually go a week longer than non-planted between w/c's, don't attempt this at first.)
10. Plant List: I found this list on the internet. It is quite helpful for proper lighting needs of individual plants.
PS: Java Ferns prefer to grow on driftwood than in the gravel! Just tie it on with some fishing line and it will eventually send roots onto the wood.
Scientific Name | Common Name | Light Requirement | Difficulty
Aponogeton crispus - Crinkled or Ruffled Aponogeton 3.0 wpg Easy/Medium
Aponogeton ulvaceus - Compact Aponogeton 2.0 - 3.0 wpg Medium/Challenging
Aponogeton undulatus 2.0 - 3.0 wpg Easy/Moderate
Cryptocoryne beckettii - Beckett's Cryptocoryne 2.0 - 3.0 wpg Easy/Medium
Cryptocoryne walkeri var. lutea 1.0+ wpg Easy
Cryptocoryne parva - Tiny Cryptocoryne 4.0 wpg Challenging
Cryptocoryne undulata - Undulate Cryptocoryne 3.0+ wpg Medium/Challenging
Cryptocoryne wendtii - Crypt Wendtii 2.0 - 3.0 wpg Easy/Medium
Cryptocoryne willisii 3.0 wpg Easy/Medium
Hydrocotyle sibthorpioides 3.0+ wpg Easy/Medium
Hygrophila corymbosa - Giant Hygrophila 2.0 - 3.0 wpg Easy
Hygrophila difformis - Water Wysteria 3.0+ wpg Medium
Hygrophila polysperma - Dwarf Hygrophila 3.0 wpg Easy
Limnophila aquatica - Giant Ambulia 3.0+ wpg Medium/Challenging
Limnophila sessiliflora - Dwarf Ambulia 3.0+ wpg Easy
Microsorium pteropus - Java Fern 1.0+ wpg Easy
Nymphaea lotus - Tiger Lotus 3.0 wpg Medium/Challenging
Nymphaea stellata - Red and Blue Water Lily 3.0+ wpg Medium
Rotala indica 3.0 wpg Medium
Rotala macrandra - Giant Red Rotala 3.0+ wpg Challenging/Difficult
Rotala rotundifolia - Dwarf rotala 3.0 wpg Medium
Salvinia natans - Salvinia 3.0 wpg Medium
Vallisneria tortifolia - Twisted Vallisneria/Dwarf Vallisneria 3.0 wpg Easy
Vesicularia dubyana - Java Moss 1.0+ wpg Easy
To Plant or not to Plant
Trying to decide between plastic or real plants???
There are some things you should consider about both.
Live Plants:
Pros: Produce oxygen for fish, purify the water, use up waste, compete with algae; and don't forget they make your tank look natural and absolutely gorgeous!
Cons: There is a lot of cutting, trimming and 'weeding' involved; some fish (cichlids, plecos, etc) enjoy eating your plants, or digging them up; you have to fertilize often; you need special lighting for them to grow; and most plants require a cO2 machine.
Plastic Plants:
Pros: No trimming or cutting; great in cichlid tanks; no fertilizing, special lighting or Co2 needed.
Cons: They tend to get coated in algae, leaving one more thing you have to clean when you do water changes; they fade; they don't help produce oxygen for fish, purify the water, use up waste, or compete with algae. And you can usually tell they are plastic, which doesn't make your tank look very natural.
There are some things you should consider about both.
Live Plants:
Pros: Produce oxygen for fish, purify the water, use up waste, compete with algae; and don't forget they make your tank look natural and absolutely gorgeous!
Cons: There is a lot of cutting, trimming and 'weeding' involved; some fish (cichlids, plecos, etc) enjoy eating your plants, or digging them up; you have to fertilize often; you need special lighting for them to grow; and most plants require a cO2 machine.
Plastic Plants:
Pros: No trimming or cutting; great in cichlid tanks; no fertilizing, special lighting or Co2 needed.
Cons: They tend to get coated in algae, leaving one more thing you have to clean when you do water changes; they fade; they don't help produce oxygen for fish, purify the water, use up waste, or compete with algae. And you can usually tell they are plastic, which doesn't make your tank look very natural.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
Posts
